Ball Python Care Sheet

Ball Python Care Sheet

Common Name: Ball Python, Royal Python

Scientific Name: Python regius

Difficulty: Beginner

Notes: The ball python is one of the most popular pet reptiles in the hobby, and for good reason. They are friendly, easy going, and easy to take care of. Hailing from sub-saharan west Africa, they inhabit burrows in the savannah and grassland, lending to their sedentary behavior in captivity. They also invite those fearful of snakes to reconsider their stance, as instead of striking, ball pythons will curl up to hide their head in their coils when scared, leading to their common name of ‘ball’ python. Their softly rounded heads and bead-like eyes almost impress a cuteness factor, helping put the unsure onlooker at ease. A great beginner snake!

Handleability: Easy to somewhat easy. They are a bit heavy at their full size, especially with large females, but they are tractable and docile. They will happily sleep in clothing for hours if it is warm enough, and are slow when exploring their environment.

Average length at full size: 4-5 feet, though females can grow upwards of 6 feet.

Recommended Tank Size:

Hatchlings up to 300 grams: 10 gallon enclosure or tub measuring approximately 20″ x 11″ x 13″

Juveniles under 3 feet long: 40 gallon enclosure measuring about 36” x 18” x 18”

Subadults and adults over 3 feet long: 120 gallon enclosure (48″ x 24″ x 24″) or larger.

A recommended setup for a ball python includes a layer of reptile-safe soil or cypress mulch, two hides (one on the basking site and the other on the cool end), and a water dish (more in the ‘Water’ section). Natural additions such as branches, rocks, leaf litter, fake plants, and cork bark will help the animal feel more secure.

Sleep Pattern: Nocturnal. These animals will be more active during the night time.

Temperature Range:

Basking Spot: 90°F (32°C) - max temp of 92°F (33°C)

Ambient Air Temperature: 85°F (29°C)

Cool End/Nighttime: 70-80°F (21-26°C)

The heat gradient is best provided by an under-tank heat mat, heat cable, or heat tape attached to a temperature-controlling thermostat. Make sure that your enclosure is designed to be able to withstand basking temperature without damage. An overhead basking bulb can be used as an alternative, but only as long as the bulb’s heat can penetrate to the basking site and provide enough warmth without overheating the enclosure.

Lighting: Lighting is not required for these snakes, but adding visual light into the enclosure can help with their circadian rhythm. Use of a 5.0 or 6% UVB across two thirds of the enclosure can help keep your animal’s color vivid, as well.

Humidity Range: 60-70%. Substrate such as cypress mulch or reptile-safe soil will help retain humidity, along with a bowl of water that the snake can curl up and soak in (see Water). Daily misting is best for these snakes, where ambient humidity can be raised above 80% to then be allowed to drop to 55% before misting again.

Diet: Whole rodents (mice, rats, African soft fur rats) are these snakes’ source of all nutrition. Feeding schedule and size of the rodent will depend on the size of your animal.

Neonates up to 100 grams: fed every 5-7 days

Juveniles 120-370 grams: fed every 7-10 days
Subadults 1-3 years old (500-1500 grams) : fed every 10-14 days

Adults 3 years and older (1500+ grams): fed every 2-4 weeks depending on size

A general rule of thumb is that the size of the rodent should be as thick in diameter as the thickest diameter of your current animal. Individual animals can vary in behavior, however, and may require smaller than optimal rodents and/or multiple rodents in one feeding session. Ball pythons are famous for going on ‘food strikes’, especially during the winter, that can last 4-9 months. As long as the snake is not losing considerable weight and its cross-section is not looking triangular with the spine becoming prominent, there is little cause for concern. These animals have slow metabolisms, especially as they grow older, and can live on their reserves for considerable periods of time without incident.

Snakes may be fed either live or frozen thawed rodents, but frozen thawed rodents are much safer for the snake’s physical condition. Rodents can bite and scratch your animal that can lead to an injury and unnecessary medical bills. Feeding live is an option that can be used to get an animal’s feeding response active again after a period of not eating, or for hatchlings that do not have an instinct to feed yet.

Water: Use a bowl large enough for your snake to curl up and soak in, with water up to a third of the way up the sides of the body. Water should be free of chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Use a water conditioner such as ReptiSafe, SeaChem Prime, or an equivalent brand. You can alternatively procure your water through filtration systems designed for drinking water. Distilled and reverse osmosis water are sufficient to use as well.